An important part of the bathroom-remodelling project is the demolition of your existing bathroom. You might want a plan. There is a process in the demolition phase and it normally does not require a sledgehammer. It will require a plan and patience.
Listed below is a planning guide to the actual demolition process.
Step 1:
· Remove the mirror and · To help keep a frameless reflection from shattering, I recommend using tape from a corner in order to corner create an “X”.
· Run tape throughout and side to side through the middle of the “X”.
· You may want to take a razor blade in order to scribe between the wall as well as a mirror to loosen colour, glue, etc.
· Once the mirror is reduced around all four sides softly break the mirror as well as carefully dispose of the reflection in the dumpster.
· Eliminate towel bars, toilet papers holders, shelves and so on from the walls.
Step 2:
· Remove the vanity top.
· Disconnect water lines. In case, check to be certain you know where the main water shutoff is designed for the home. Make sure the shut-off valves for the sink are generally closed before disconnecting these inflatable water lines. Open the hot along with cold water for the spigot and let the waterlines drain.
· If there are not any shut off valves for the vanity bowl, you need to shut the water off of the home. Check this by simply turning some faucets as well as making sure the water stops working. Remove the water lines. Trim the copper pipe while needed and install a data compression fitting shutoff valve. Or even sure what to do, I highly encourage you to find someone who will help, such as a licensed plumber. Become very cautious when coping with water!
· Disconnect the actual drain line for the kitchen sink.
· Use a razor edge to cut loose any lute holding the vanity best to the vanity.
· Place vanity top in the rubbish or a safe location in case you are reusing the vanity best.
Step 3:
· Remove the counter/cabinet.
· Eliminate screws holding the counter to the wall. If you are reusing the existing vanity, I recommend eliminating the vanity anyway. This can help give you a professionally completed look for the floor tile create it easier to install a floor tile.
· If normal water shut off valves were formerly installed after the vanity ended up being installed, you can cut these inflatable water shutoff valves off, you can also carefully cut the mirror back open to allow the mirror back to slide over the shut-off valves.
· If you decide to trim the shutoff valves off, you will need to shut the main normal water off to the home. Be sure you cap the water lines or even install new shutoff valves before turning the water back again.
· Remove foundation trim along the bathroom wall space.
· Break the counter down and throw it within a dumpster or place it in a secure location if you are reusing the actual vanity.
Step 4:
· Take away the toilet.
· Turn the water off at the shutoff device.
· If the toilet has no shutoff valve follow the course of action above in step 3 intended for installing a shutoff sphincter muscle.
· After the water is usually shut off, flush the toilet more than once to remove as much water as you can.
· Use a wet store vacuum or a sponge to get rid of the remaining water.
· Take away the nuts and caps in the base of the toilet.
· The toilet should lift directly off; the old wax engagement ring should be visible.
· Make use of a putty knife to remove the actual wax ring. Stuff the actual opening with a rag to avoid sewer fumes from getting into the home.
· Dispose of stained or set aside if it is as you see fit again.
Step 5:
· Get rid of the bathtub/shower around.
· Remove the trim to the tub/shower spigot.
· Remove the fibreglass shower area surround by cutting down typically the corners with a reciprocating found. Use a short blade and cut into the wall from the back. Remember, you do not know very well what is in the wall behind the actual shower.
· If you have a ceramic shower surround use a razor-sharp razor blade to score or cut the drywall throughout at the top of the tile as well as along the sides of the ceramic tile. You will have to run the razor blade over the drywall several times to cut all the way through. Pry the actual tile and the backer panels off the wall. The backer panel is held on along with screws. These screws are going to be removed after the backboard is usually removed.
· Remove the porcelain tile and backer board throughout larger sections, if possible, to reduce dust and trips on the dumpster.
· Do not get rid of the drywall where the tile is simply not installed. You want to remove the porcelain tile and the backer board right behind the tile only. That which you remove now you have to exchange later.
· Disconnect typically the bathtub drain and may help the bathtub. If the bathtub is definitely cast iron, have a couple of wheeled carts to help take the bathtub to the dumpster service, as cast iron bathtubs are heavy. You can break up the cast iron bath into smaller sections at home, but this will make a wreck. You can cover the bath with a blanket before bursting the tub apart to support contain small pieces and maintain the mess to a minimum.
· If the bathtub is fibreglass, cut the tub into manageable sections to remove from your household and dispose of into the dumpster service.
Step 6:
· Remove the present flooring.
· Depending on the involving the bathroom and how the flooring has been installed will affect just how easy the removal method will be.
· Below are actually a couple of the most common ways I realize the floor tile was installed.
The particular tile may be set on bare cement board. The cement table is often set on a thin established and screwed to the sub-floor.
With this you may have five tiers of flooring:
· To pick from
· Thin-set
· Cement Board
· Skinny set
· Subfloor: the subfloor will stay. The rest should be removed.
The to pick from is set on a layer regarding thin set that is concerning one inch thick.
Using this you may have three layers:
· Tile
· Thin established
· Subfloor – often the subfloor will stay. Everything else really should be removed.
· Every bath is different and until you get started with the demolition of the carpet you do not know what you will encounter. In any event ., removing the tile in addition to tile backer down to often the subfloor is not an easy task.
· One option you may have should be to remove the tile only and put the new tile on the previous mortar bed. This option could raise the current height with the tiled floor from 3/8 to 3/4 of a half-inch. I do not recommend this selection as it does not give you the opportunity to scrutinize the existing subfloor for deterioration.
· There are a variety of thresholds available to transition from the ceramic floor to the adjacent carpet. Check with your local flooring retailer to see what threshold is fine best.
· Keep in mind the bathroom flange will need to sit eliminated with the subfloor or the done floor. If the flange will be higher or lower than the particular finished floor, you may need to affect the flange. This, of course, may add to your expenses.
At this point, your bathrooms should be empty, except for the sunshine. We will keep the light at the moment and install a new one in particular later. It is now time to commence putting the bathroom back together!
I actually strongly encourage you to check out and double-check your work to make certain everything is done correctly. When at any point you are not comfortable, step back and hire the proper specialist. Always be sure to follow the regional and national building limitations.
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